Aug 11 - Day 1 in Budapest

Welcome to Eastern Europe! From the exciting train ride on, I knew this would be an amazing trip in a place wholly new to me. These two days in Budapest showed me a new part of Europe that I cannot wait to return to and learn more about, and additionally, taught me a great deal about myself as an individual and a traveler.

As much as I love public transportation in Europe, it’s certainly not perfect! But in its faults, it provided a big adventure for me today. I was pretty much in charge for organizing the weekend jaunt to Budapest. Figuring stuff out for fifteen people is a little difficult. By the way, that is the biggest understatement in the world.

I found a hostel that could fit all of us and then organized a group ticket for the train. Yay for getting 20 euros off the normal price! Unfortunately, we found some problems at Westbahnhof, but nothing impossible. I hadn’t completely figured out the seat reservations, so we were very confused for awhile. Of course, the minute we got settled, we were told the wagon was not safe and we had to get off! We were already running quite late, sadly, but I am very flexible so I was not concerned.

We evacuated and waited for a new train wagon to be attached. With the new train went our seat reservations as well. The train didn’t have enough spots, so many of us ended up on the floor in the aisle. It turned out to be a European adventure! Not bad at all – in fact, it ended up being so fun!

After being in charge of planning, a bit of spontaneity is pretty exhilarating. And watching everyone react differently to the situation, both those in our group and other travelers as well, taught me many lessons about people in a very short period of time. We encountered some not so friendly travelers, but I must say that it was nicely balanced by the many friendly Hungarians we met throughout the trip!

Now I’m in the other half of the old Austro-Hungarian Empire. I’m in another country, one with an amazing history – from its beginnings to the Habsburgs to communism.

After the train ride ended, we entered Budapest. It is immediately nothing like Vienna – the scraps of communism, of being a part of the poor Eastern Bloc, and not yet benefiting from the Euro show clearly, especially at the train station. We saw some people clearly on drugs, homeless… I do not want to say it is a ‘dirty’ city, because it certainly is not. It is most definitely one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. At night, the city lights up in a way that is probably second only to Paris. But the city is grungier and not westernized. It feels Eastern, and thus, there is a mystique to it for me as I’m very interested in exploring places once dominated by communism.

It was pretty much love at first sight for me, and I was also very excited to be traveling on my own terms. Of course, it turned out that wasn’t completely true – only a few of us had done any examination into Budapest prior to arriving. So I served as one of the main leaders and the tour guide for the trip.

At the train station, one of my classmates, Henri, had gone to get directions to the hostel. Of course, the information booth at the station had led us somewhat astray, so we got off a bus and found ourselves in a crazy rain storm! I thought it was a blast – it literally started to feel like the drops were hail at one point. Henri and I were waiting for the right bus to arrive so we could gather everyone in it, so we waited in the rain while it pounded down – only after it eased a bit did we notice the awning right behind us that would have shielded us. I find stuff like that absolutely hilarious and memorable. The rain storm was a great highlight, and I think that Budapest overcast and misty is perfect.

When we found our hostel, it was a bit depressing. I am glad we only had to spend one night there, because it was not great - but definitely not terrible for a single night. What made it worse for me, however, was that it serves as a dorm for students during the year. That dorm is no place to live, although the area it is in – Buda, the hillier and prettier side – seems wonderful. The divide between my life at UC Santa Barbara, with my ocean view dorm and the lives of students at the university in Budapest is enormous – I cannot imagine day to day life in that type of living situation. It made me wonder – do the students know that a place like that, with its graffiti, broken glass, and absolute grunginess is not normal? Or are they perhaps just happy to be attending college? I wish I knew. However, for me, the hostel was not terrible. All I care about while staying somewhere when I travel is safety, and these doors locked well, we were on the 7^th floor, and there was a person at reception for 24 hours. Also, I spent probably 6 hours sleeping in the hostel, so it was not my destination at all, and thus, no part of it caused me great concern since I had the feeling of security.

After settling in the hostel, I asked the desk to recommend a place for dinner, since most of us had not eaten for hours. The hostel may have been pretty terrible, but the recommendation was absolutely fabulous. We went to Kis Borostyán (http://kisborostyan.hu/), a local Mediterranean restaurant that also featured Hungarian specialties. It was adorable, and more importantly, delicious! The staff was so accommodating to us, rearranging the tables, speaking English, and basically providing some of the best service I have experienced in Europe. I ate delicious Hungarian pancakes stuffed with spicy meat (Stuffed pancakes Hortobágy art), a large pizza with egg and pepper on it, and a sour cherry-cinnamon strudel (which the menu described as “the dessert of our Holidays”). The menu was amazing – so much to choose from – but best of all were the hilarious English descriptions under each item. For example, under pizza, it said “More to Pleasure You!” The dinner was delicious, and thanks to the exchange rate, excellently priced. I was more than happy to throw down 3000 forints for three courses, 2 juices, and a coffee. It was delicious!

After the filling dinner, I thought it would be amazing to just walk along the Danube and experience Budapest at twilight and into the night. We walked to the river bank (still on the Buda side) and spotted a cave church in the hill (Gellert Hill, next to the famous hotel and baths). When you see something like that, you of course have to hike to it! There was a mass going on inside the church at the time, so we just wandered through the entrance and enjoyed it. The history of the Cave Church is quite interesting – it opened in 1926, but was blocked up by the Communists and only reopened in 1989. I don’t understand anyone who wants to cover up such beauty. I hope many people come to it now that they can.

On the walk up to the Church we found the best slide I have ever been on. I mention it because I love the random finds when I travel and wonder off from my initial set plan. This slide was so thrilling – entering a black hole and shooting down a hill, slamming down at the bottom! Those of us who went on it, I’m sure, all had a blast!

Walking along the Danube here was wonderful with everything lit up. We saw Castle Hill, various bridges, and many buildings. In the summer, they put up a fair on the most beautiful bridge – the Chain Bridge, designed by a Scot and finished in 1849. It has small shops, food places, and music throughout the weekend. It’s great just to stroll down, look at the wares, and eat delicious sweet bread. The shopping is pretty wonderful there – especially being out of doors on a bridge flooded in light and with flowers draping the top - and I got some nice gifts.

I just loved being in a new city and witnessing the Danube in a different light, the light of a new and fascinating city. I love Vienna and I definitely can picture living here – but I’m not sure about Budapest. All I know is I have to go back someday.

After the bridge, we headed to a bar for a bit to hang out, but it was not too fun so we decided to head back to the Buda side. Some people chose to return to the hostel, but a few of us were wise and chose to check out a bustling bar/club along the river. I don’t recall ever having so much fun before! It was such an interesting experience – music ranged from Salt ‘n’ Pepa, Prince, and older American music to crazy techno and people of all ages were there from fifteen to forty-five. Just a slight observation I had was the height of the people. Hungarians are quite tall.

This club was outdoors and we were dancing up a storm, so it was actually really pleasant when a slight rain began. When we left, I definitely ended satisfied with my night in Budapest.

I’d seen the ‘scene’ in Budapest, the Danube and all the gorgeous buildings lit up at night. I found I could organize a large group and yet maintain the independence that is crucial to who I am as a traveler. I was very happy with my first night’s promenade in Budapest and my first time in the wonderful land of Eastern Europe!