Aug 6 - Day 6 in Vienna

Today I took the opportunity to visit the world of the opulent Habsburgs, as well as the artwork of the modern artist Hundertwasser. During class, we watched a film about the early rulers of Austria and the formation of Habsburg rule. The power of marriage is a common theme in monarchies, and none better represents it than “you – lucky Austria – marry!” The movie pretty much covered the Berenger and Vienna: The Past in the Present readings, but it was helpful due to providing visual context. It highlighted the beginning of the Habsburgs’ dream of an empire. Most of all, it got me excited for my next excursion – the Schatzkammer, or Imperial Treasury. After seeing the crown of the Holy Roman Emperor in the film (as well as in our syllabus and on Rick Steve’s Vienna show), I knew it had to be seen immediately in person.

After a delicious kasekrainer, I headed into the treasury. Filled with swords, cloaks sewed with gold, crowns, and saints’ relics, it certainly ranks as one of the most impressive and, quite frankly, disgusting (but oh so gorgeous) displays of power I have ever witnessed. The Imperial Regalia – which I learned is the only fully preserved imperial regalia of the Middle Ages – blew me away in person. Just imagining someone wielding such a show of power gave me a thrill! I think I’d even buy into the myth of the Holy Roman Empire, despite it not fulfilling any of those titles if I someone decked out in the imperial regalia. The crown of the HRE appears like it would take a head of pure steel to be able to hold that many jewels. It is also quite an interesting crown, as it is not a circular shape, but octagonal. The plates on the crown are made of gold and portray things from the Bible (trying to convince everyone of the Holy part of the HRE title), as well as huge gems. It was certainly one of the highlights of the treasury.

I also particularly enjoyed a small artifact on the bottom of one of the display cases – it features a tiny casket of Ferdinand III surrounded by dancing skeletons. I have googled it, but no information has yet come up.

The saints’ relics included such likely objects as a piece of the thorn crown of Christ.

Thanks to the earlier tour by “Dr.O,” a few of us remembered that Mondays meant half-off for the Hundertwasser museum – KunstHausWien! Since I love modern art and I completely adored his building, I was so excited to further investigate his work. Being in Vienna is teaching me how to work an art museum – slowly and ALWAYS with a pen and notebook. His museum was incredibly fun – mainly because his work is! His art made me laugh – not at it, but with it with enjoyment - at his creativity and individual vision. I used to despise modern art, but then when I was sixteen I pretty much had an eye opening and life changing art experience looking at an Edward Hopper exhibition and one on the Pop Art/poetry book “1 Cent Life” that made me ‘see the light’ on modern art. Now it’s a deep love and Hundertwasser can be added to the list of artists that I truly enjoy and whose art I can feel. So far on this trip, the art that has made me feel truly alive like that have been Hundertwasser’s buildings and paintings, Wagner’s architecture, and Bruegel’s works. I think he had a very unique vision of the world, one of perfect cohabitation with nature, and it’s interesting to see how he attempted it in an urban city such as Vienna. My favorite Hundertwasser quote (the museum features his artwork, building plans and his quotes) is “our illiteracy is our inability to create.”

I don’t know if I agree so much with another Hundertwasser quote: “The line I trace with my feet walking to the museum is more important and more beautiful than the lines I find there hung up on the walls.” His museum was filled with so much beauty... my particular favorite was The Way to You, even though it is not the craziest Hundertwasser creation.

However, I guess he is partly right, as getting to the museum actually was quite fun, as it was my first time on the tram. I went around the Ringstrasse and felt so tempted to get out at every stop to explore – I’ll definitely be doing that another day. On the way to the museum, I really must say I impressed myself with my growing ability to spot Wagner’s works. I looked at a bridge and instantly knew it was an Otto Wagner creation. Just getting to know art so well is absolutely exciting for me. I can now easily tick off Baroque and any kind of neo- building imaginable, it seems.

After eating in the awesome KunstHausWien café, which embodied Hundertwasser’s architecture and dream of living with nature (we were surrounded by trees) and getting my first delicious apfelstrudel, it was time to head back to the dorms and grab some dinner. After a bite to eat, I headed out with two others to check out the Schwedenplatz night scene. Since it’s on the Danube Canal, it had perfect weather and a nice environment. We hung out on the top deck of the Badeschiff Wien (http://badeschiff.at/) – a stationary boat/café with a swimming pool. Since it was a Monday, it was very relaxed so we had a nice evening enjoying the Danube. I really can’t remember having such a lovely Monday in a long time. I find the Viennese way of life truly amazing, with its offerings of such a variety of amazing nightlife opportunities. After awhile, however, it was time to get back so we would be able for tomorrow’s excursion to Melk!