Aug 3 - Day 3 in Vienna

Today was extremely busy and filled with some amazing sightseeing. I started the day in a coffee shop next to class – I cannot get enough of the classic mélange. The first lecture was very interesting. I love Roman history, so hearing about all the Roman connections in Vienna was a particular highlight for me. Vienna began as a Roman camp, Vindabona, while the nearby city of Carnutum still has major ruins that I plan on visiting soon. The lecture provided a great deal of information on the Babenberg dynasty (the first Vienna ruling house) and the formation of the Habsburgs (who ruled from 1273-1918). Additionally, the professor shared some good weekend ideas. I’m particularly interested in going to Klosterneuburg, a monastery in the wine growing region. I hope to go there Sunday, go on a tour, and visit the heurigens. If not this week, very soon!

After class ended, the professor took us on a great walk through the city. We passed by the Monument to Fascism and discussed the ideas of memory and complicity in the Holocaust and World War II for the Austrians. We also walked to the Hofburg, the royal court of the Habsburgs, which is absolutely immense, and some ruins that are open on a city square (including Roman). The Hofburg has so much history, and as a history nerd, I went a little crazy with excitement. Unfortunately, we did not stay too long, but I cannot wait to spend a good deal of time there in the future! I did get to see where Hitler delivered his speech to the people of Vienna – it was so strange to imagine people crowded in on the lovely park (the Heldenplatz, or Heroes Square) listening to such hateful speech.

We ended our walk at the MuseumsQuartier and I went off with a few people for a delicious lunch from a wurstelstand – a kasekrainer, a puss/cheese sausage. Needless to say, as the description makes clear, it was absolutely delicious.

As we had taken the U-bahn to Stephansplatz, we decided to explore the Stephansdom and the amazing catacombs below the cathedral. The church was quite beautiful, but I must save my highest praise for the catacombs. It was a completely strange and beautiful experience. Lowering into the last resting place for so many – victims of the plague, various church officials, and the organs of the Habsburgs – gave me the feeling of going into another Vienna, one of a different period and needs. Of course, the major need was to quickly dispose of plague victims, so it was a rather creepy experience. The guide explained that the rooms we were in had once been strewn full of bones, which had to be removed for space purposes and stacked. We were able to look into one of the rooms with the piled up bones. Looking at the limbs, it’s easy to forget they were once living, but the skulls certainly reminded me. I really loved the trip down to the catacombs and the way it transported me to a time period I’m very glad to have skipped out on.

After the catacombs, it was onto the Kunsthistorisches Museum. It was the first of what I am sure will be many visits – the place is massive and there is so much I still want to see! The collection of Roman antiquities was gorgeous, with wonderful sculptures, jewelry and artifacts. The Egyptian objects included mummies, sarcophagi with hieroglyphics and statues of the pharaohs. I did not have enough time to truly appreciate the second floor, which features art, so I will have to spend some quality time there in the future for my own personal enjoyment as well as the assignment on comparing Catholic and Protestant sensibilities in art.

With such a busy day of exploring and yes, expanding my intellectual horizons, I headed back to Simmering for some rest and relaxation before getting my first glance at Viennese nightlife. Several of us went out to Schwedenplatz to check out the scene. We had a place in mind called First Floor, but of course we were unable to find it. It was fun wandering around the area and many people were incredibly friendly. We met one Viennese, named Dani, who really enjoyed speaking English and served as our tour guide for awhile. When she found out I was from Los Angeles, she grilled me on what celebrities I had seen. She was particularly interested in rappers, but I could not provide any good stories on that. We talked more about American and Austrian musical tastes, and she expressed how disappointed she was in the lack of current Austrian artists. She said that American music is the most popular, as well as techno – but that the big stars are currently from other countries like Italy.

We ended the night with a shared kebab box that we all went crazy for. It’s a delicious and easy to get as a snack or meal. After devouring the box, we took the NightLine bus back to Simmering. Tomorrow I plan on going to Naschmarkt to check out the Saturday morning flea market and then maybe doing a bit more exploring. I have been having a great time so far and thanks to such a variety of experiences!